TransPortugal 2017

Finding the way in a fantastic county

Braganca to Tavira to Braganca Total: 2028Km

We heard about the TransPortugal roughly a year ago.

After researching it for a bit we came across a few routes online, all more or less using the same tracks. Researching on ADV Rider brought up a couple of other routes that were ridden within the last 5 years and some vital pointers in regards to Access issues and Accommodation.

After gathering all this information we sat down and created our own route, researched and marked camping facilities and Petrol Stations and for worst case KTM Workshops.

We planned to take our two 450s (KTM EXC & Husky FE) in the back of the T5, go to Braganca in the north of Portugal and leave the van there.
We prepared for Camping and Hotel Accommodation along the way, using the amazing Enduristan Luggage Solutions to carry our gear on the bikes.

We also wanted to check out what is better, Tubes or Mousses. So my bike was equipped with Mousses Front and Rear while Donna’s bike was equipped with tubes.

My EXC was on the OEM Maxxis Maxxcross 7314/7315 and Donna had the Maxxis Pro IT 7304 on the front and a Pirelli Scorpion XC on the back. My tires had 150 miles on it, Donna’s were brand new. Brake Pads were almost new on both bikes and Chain and sprockets were new on Donna’s and 150 miles old on mine. Technically the two bike are based around the same engine and most parts would fit either bike. Donna’s bike had seen some previous action on a couple of Rallies and mine was just bought in August last year and only used for a couple green laneing trips. Both bikes had a fresh oil change and valve check. All good.

TP17 -3 FIRST DAY OF TRAVEL

UK to Abbeville France

Due to personal responsibilities we couldn’t be 100% sure when we would actually start, so booking a ferry in advance to the Iberian Peninsula was not an option at the time.

On the 3rd of April we decided to leave and due to the Ferry Prices being ridiculous, we decided to go via the Tunnel and through France.

In retrospect I wouldn’t want to do it again this way, as France in a Van is not very exciting. At this moment in time it was a good option giving us the chance to get into travel mode ;-)

We left Stevenage late Afternoon and caught the Tunnel Shuttle at 20:00.

As we booked as freight, a more flexible option, we had to wait for just under an hour to get on the train.

Once in France we set off on the A16 to Abbeville to call it a night in the F1-Hotel there.

For the readers not familiar with the F1 Hotels, it is a basic 3 Bed Room with no bath or toilet but cheap as chips.

TP17-2 SECOND DAY OF TRAVEL

Abbeville to Bordeaux

Quite unspectacular journey from Abbeville to Bordeaux via the A16 and A10.

In Bordeaux we stopped at the B&B Hotel Bordeaux Est, a brand new Hotel of the B&B Chain opened just 3 days before we arrived.

The B&B Hotels are as cheap as the F1 Hotels but all have a small bathroom with Shower. The receptionist recommended the Bistro Regent next door for dinner, a Restaurant specialised on Steak with chips and their famous sauce. Well worth trying out!!

TP17-1 THIRD DAY OF TRAVEL

Bordeaux to Braganca

Another day on the motorways from Bordeaux to Braganca Portugal.
We stopped for a lovely Coffee and Sandwich in rural France before crossing the Border to Spain.
The drive over the Pyrenees and northern Spain displayed the variances of the landscapes.
We need to go back exploring there, for sure.
We arrived in Braganca late afternoon and pitched on the Parque de Campismo Inatel Braganca.

Only thing there is that they don’t speak English or German,
but as long as we have working hands and feet the communication worked.
We unloaded the bikes and started preparing bikes and luggage for the next day.

We agreed with the Manager of the campsite to leave the Van there for the next 10-12 days had a light dinner and went to sleep in the Van.

DAY 1 OF THE TRANSPORTUGAL 2017

Travel Day 4 / TP 1 Braganca to Sendim 95% Off Road 117Km

We got up fairly early and loaded the luggage on the bikes.

The bags we used were the Blizzard Saddle Bags from Enduristan, founded by a good friend of mine in Switzerland and we used them together with their Tornado 2 Pack Roll. We decided on the Large Saddle bags as the footprint is the same for the S, the M and the L but the width slightly differs and if the full size isn’t needed you can strap them smaller.

I used the Tornado 2 Size L and Donna the Size M.

In mine I had the tent, Sleeping bag, Rain Jacket and most important my Camping Ground Chair.

I’m old and like my creature comforts.

My packlist:

Enduristan Tornado 2-L Pack Roll:
Quechua Quickhiker Ultralight 3 Hiking Tent - 3 Man, Grey 2.6Kg, 40cm*20cm
OEX 900 Down Sleeping Bag
Exped UL9 Mattress
Blow Up Pillow
Helinox Ground Chair
Rain Jacket & Pants
Air Pump for tires.
In the Enduristan Blizzard L
4x T-Shirt, 4x underpants
Casual Trousers
Spare Base Layer Set
Spare Gloves, Woolly Hat, Pair of trainers and Socks
Fleece Jacket
Jetboil Flash with spare Gas canister (100g)
Camping Mug, Cutlery and Travel Wash for me and clothes.
Toiletries and Chargers and Cables for Phone, GoPro and Photo Camera
GoPro Adapters and spare batteries
Specialities on the bike
USB Charger Socket with Switch and Fuse
Garmin Montana powered mount
Leatherman Wave
Ram Mount for GoPro
Hardcase for Photo camera
Wire Padlock
Toolroll
Enduristan Fender bag with Enduristan ToolRoll inside
Kriega Backpack with 3L Bladder
Passport, Headtorch, Snacks, Cable ties, Knife and spare Glasses

As we planned on sharing Washbag and Jetboil .. Donna had plenty of space in her bags so we moved my Exped and the Jetboil over to her.

Donna had the A-Lite Ground Chair and the Exped UL6 both smaller in packsize and weight but personally I prefer the Helinox Chair. Bit sturdier and much easier to put together. PackSize differs just a tiny bit, so Helinox is highly recommended.

The Exped UL6 compared to the UL9 is far smaller packed up and lighter.

Comfort is equally good, so here I would recommend to go for the 6 instead of the 9.

The tent

I was looking into tents which were spacious, small pack size lightweight and not as expensive as a small car.

I was close to giving up when I stumbled upon the Quickhiker Range at Decathlon/Quechua. I must say this is the bees knees. Roomy when up, two lightweight poles and setup in a couple minutes. The inner tent is fixed to the out so even if it rains the inner stays dry during setup. And it cost only half of any alternative out there in the same pack size and weight range.

The OEX Sleeping bags were new arrivals at GoOutdoors just a week before we planned to leave.

I popped down to the branch in Swansea and checked them out to see if they were smaller than my Cathyntia and result! They were.

They are good and marked as 4 Season and performed very well.

Tip for the next trip I will pack a cotton or silk Sleeping Bag Liner to put over the Exped when using the sleeping back as duvet.

Once we had everything tied down and stowed away we could park up the Van and set off.

By then it was almost Noon …. Doh!

So off we went to the petrol station and 10 minutes later we hit the first trail out of Braganca

The trails were great, the vistas amazing and all in all it was a smooth practise ride preparing us for the next days of riding on unpaved roads with luggage on the back of our bikes. Something I hadn’t done in a long time and Donna never ever.

We had the odd collapsed bridge but mostly smooth tracks

We reached the little town of Sendim early evening.

I had marked it with a petrol station at roughly 115Km, Tracklog stated 117Km confirming that my calculations via Google Earth weren’t far off.

We stayed at Hotel Gabriella oposite the Church and had dinner in their Restaurant.

We had the most amazing BBQ Pork with baked potatoes and home pickled peppers and olives … Yumm!

The one thing we would learn over the next few days was that never order two mains for two people.

Even with trying there was no chance of finishing the meal …!

The room was a bit rustic the telly (old tiny analog thing) only working after me reprogramming the Topbox and only one channel had english language at least for a bit.

TRAVEL DAY 5 / TP 2 SENDIM TO CASTELO RODRIGO

95% Off Road 124Km

We had arranged Breakfast for 9am

Not realising that our watches were still on Spanish CET Time due to the close proximity to the border we were ready for Breakfast at 8am, Only to find the Restaurant still close. At 8:30 (or 9:30 as we thought) a quite sleepy Landlady opened the door and greeted us warm and friendly.

We took our time to have a nice breakfast and prepared for the day.

Rule No.1: we are on holiday

Rule No.2: see Rule No.1

By 11-ish (so we thought) we were ready to set off. Down to the petrol station and onto the trails with the intention of doing a bit more than the day before.

The trails started off easy as the day before and the countryside varied after every bend while we were heading further up into the mountains.

At one point we came off the wide tracks and had to follow a mountain path with loads of stone steps through a rocky valley.

After this bit, which I wouldn’t recommend to do with a larger bike and luggage, as it had a few nasty switchbacks, we reached a bit of road into a village to get a cold drink. Desperately needed!

After that a few more smooth tracks and water crossings before we reached Castelo Rodrigo.

We stayed in a little Hotel along the main road run by an old couple. The plumbing in need of repair and telly not working at all.

It was here where we first realized that our watches were not on the correct time as the restaurants open at 7 pm and upon entering we were informed that it only was 6 pm.

We had dinner in a little restaurant in one of the back streets. The waitress spoke perfect English and the food was outstandingly good. Even the Black Pig I ordered not knowing that this means, quite fatty ribs, was very tasty. So all good.

TRAVEL DAY 6 / TP 3 CASTELO RODRIGO TO MONFORTINHO

90% Off Road 157Km

After Breakfast at 9pm, now actually able to tell the time properly :-), we packed the bikes filled up and set off for Day No.3.

The Trails were smooth all day. We had wide swooping Tracks well graded and smaller trails with Stone walls each side.

Sometimes around and over smooth but huge granite boulders and through what looked like petrified trees.

At one point in the last third of the track we rode on the actual border between Spain and Portugal on a wide fire break.

The going was so good and fun that we didn’t realize that we were slightly off track. Up and down the hills making good progress up to the one point where the track just dropped down a fairly steep hillside.

Here we realised that we were ever so slightly of the track and had to go back a mile to rejoin the track which then was going down the hill on switch backs.

But too late I had my brown stain already in my pants.

During the day we saw that Donna’s bike had sprung a leak at the Outputshaft. So we got a bit of Oil and kept an eye on the levels.

In Monfortinho we found a little Hotel with an English speaking Landlady and good showers. We had Dinner in the restaurant of the hotel, bit pricey and the steak was a bit tough but all in all recommended to stay there for a night.

TRAVEL DAY 7 / TP 4 MONFORTINHO TO CASTELO DE VIDE

90% Off Road 188Km

After a good breakfast we saddled the horses and went on. We got really good and efficient over the last days tying the bags on and packing. We seemed to get more space out of them, or we lost items and didn’t realize it J

Today was a real mix and we had the usual smooth lanes trough beautiful landscapes, the tight and narrow lanes, even cobble stoned steep overgrown paths up the hills to the old fortresses.

Amazingly the few walkers we met were all friendly, smiling and all in all pleasant. Something the walkers here in UK should try, but probably would turn them into dust ….

We also met the first few gates or more wire barriers to keep the livestock at bay

And of course we had the odd water crossing to cool down my Mousses

The area was amazing, all over these big old volcano columns now crumbled into huge Granite boulders

We arrived in Castelo de Vide early evening. A town with plenty of hotels and B&Bs to pick from.

Or so it looked at first glance. Murphy and his law decided to hold a Football tournament in the town that day and every bed was booked out. So we went a few clicks outside of Castelo de Vide and camped on the Campismo Quinta Do Pomarinho. A small campground run by Dolph the Dutchman. As the Dutch are crazy people if it comes to camping, this campgrounds facilities were absolutely spotless. Top marks. The Tent was up in Jiffy, due to us having it tried once before, mats blown up, sleeping bags laid out all ready for a good night sleep.

TRAVEL DAY 8 / TP 5 CASTELO DE VIDE TO ELVAS

90% Off Road 120Km

After a quite late getting up and a very brief breakfast, we didn’t shop the day before, we loaded up and set off.

up and down old cobble paths,

The riding was amazing, trail after trail.

Wide and open to covered by trees,

through the fort, down the Granite strewn path,

past some abandoned Army barracks now occupied by Storks

We stopped for a late light lunch

And with bellies filled to the brim we rode on but after a while the ‘Lite Lunch’ caught up and we decided to stop in Elvas.

But Elvas was still 40Km away so we better get going.

Straight after the village we lost the track. It was gone and we found ourselves in an olive orchard. Not 3 minutes later the Police came and explained that we shouldn't be there. We were ready to turn around and find a way around the orchard when the Police Officers told us to follow them out. They picked the most off road route through the orchard :-)

After that it was a quick burst to Elvas

TRAVEL DAY 9 / TP 6 ELVAS TO BEJA

10% Off Road 157Km

After the usual morning routine, Breakfast at 9am and loading the bikes we set off to re-join the trail along the river Guadiana.

The track crossed the EM511 and that would be the point for us to hit the trail again.

It felt good riding along the river bank until we hit the first locked gate.

It was something new to see locked gates with no real way around, so we had to turn back to Elvas to take the ER373 and join the trail a bit further south.

But again locked gates there. So what to do?

As the leak on Donna’s bike had gotten worse and my rear mousse felt a bit soft we decided to cut through to Beja on roads to get to the KTM Dealership and sort our bikes out.

The guys at MotorXpro let us use their Workshop and tools and were there with good advice and providing a good atmosphere. Great guys, pop in if you go by.

Donna sorted the leak.

The rubber ring behind the bush had perished, a common issue. Additionally a piece of string had found its way behind the sprocket and worked its way into the Shaft Seal which made the leak worse. Donna swapped both Seal and O-Ring.

I swapped the rear mousse for a Michelin UHD tube.

We found a Hotel just around the corner and used the time to wash some undies and socks and for relaxing in general.

TRAVEL DAY 10 / TP 7 BEJA TO TAVIRA

60% Off Road 260Km

With the bikes all sorted we had a good breakfast, filled up at the petrol station opposite the Hotel and went on south. We decided to abandon the tracks I found on Wikiloc as these were taking a few more days to reach the Algarve coast and our time was running out. We had as an alternative a route for bigger Adventure bikes and choose to follow this today. It was ridden just recently and so we were sure not to hit too many locked gates or disappeared tracks. The day was amazing, loads of wide tracks through old sulfur mines along old train tracks, tunnels and rolling hills.

Today was the first day we actually met other riders on the trails, two Germans on BMW GSs. We came past a German lady on a GS on the Road bits and later at the end she was waiting alone for the other two to arrive.

We briefly stopped at the Forte de Cacela for the obligatory pictures

We found a room in a cheap B&B run by an English lady and had our first proper tea in a long time.

Delicious. And as we were at the coast we went to a fish restaurant, the busiest at the strip, to do something about Donna’s craving for Fish.

Unfortunately the Mixed Grill of Fish wasn’t that mixed and it felt like eating a family of fish, Mum, Dad, brother and sister.

The Mixed Grill of Meat wasn’t special either. All cuts from the same pig.

So we didn’t waste much time there went back to the B&B for a nice cuppa.

TP 8 TAVIRA TO BEJA

0% off road, 175Km total

Last evening while pulling up at the B&B we saw that Donna’s front brake pads were worn down to the metal and the disc was already worn down a lot. So we decided to try our luck in Loule a small town not far off with a KTM Dealer. But it is Good Friday in a very Catholic Country, but hey maybe someone is there and we might get something.

As Murphy and his law must have been taking the day off we stumbled onto the Baja Loule, a local Rally for Bikes and ATVs. One of the teams was so kind to sell us a set of Pads. Thank you very much.

We then road on, back to Beja to the same Hotel.

TP 9 BEJA TO ALVEGA

40% Off Road, 312Km total

We had an early start and went via road for a while to then join the track a bit further up north.

We needed to get some KM done today and the tracks helped a lot. Wide smooth and swooping changing into tarmac and back to gravel. The odd Castelo to stop and enjoy the view.

Surprisingly early we arrived at the endpoint of the track only to find that the bridge over a massive gorge we had to cross the next morning was closed. Also Accommodation was a bit pricey with Room prices hitting the three digits. So we checked on Booking.com and found another Hotel not far off in Alvega. Turned out it was owned by a Brit, Paul, who was there for the Easter Weekend to clean the pool. We were the only guests and choose a little apartment next

to the courtyard where we could park the bikes right in front of our room.

We then got invited to join Paul and his partner for Dinner. Home made Salad, cheeses, olives and meatloaf. Check it out ‘Solar de Alvega’

TP 10 ALVEGA TO MANTAIGAS

40% Offroad, 185Km total

After a nice evening meal and a guided tour of the property we had a very good breakfast with loads of coffee. It was difficult to leave so packing was a bit slower than usual.

Goal for today was to reach Mantaigas, a village that seemed to have a lot of Hotels.

The riding today was very relaxed, a few gravel tracks followed by twisty road and then up the mountain in loads of hairpin switchbacks onto a piece of gravel track over the pass.

Then down some more switchbacks into Maintegas, which actually is a Ski Resort, hence the number of Hotels.

But we were out of season so a lot were either closed, or still expensive. We did find a nice little B&B with a bar and stayed there. After a quick Shower we went into the Village and had a nice fresh Salad.

After that a beer and a game of Pool in the Bar before we went to bed.

TP 11 MANTEIGAS TO BRAGANCA

10% Offroad, 235Km total

This morning we found out that the B&B was just a B, no Breakfast. So we strolled down into the Village for a Coffee and back to load up. The luggage packing is now done in under 5 minutes.

Getting pretty good at it and the luggage is just great.

Today we would mainly ride roads as our tires are pretty much dead and we still had a long way to go. But the last few miles we hit the track again just to finish it off as we began, on the beautiful trails of Portugal.

We went to the Castelo Braganca for a cold drink and the first time on this trip we were ripped off. 2.- Euros for a small can of Ice Tea which everywhere else in Portugal cost 1.-€. Thieves!!

Back at the Campground, the Van started fine. We sorted our gear, went shopping to get provisions for the trip back and fell into bed.

To then discover that the air mattress in the Van had a puncture, but we had our Exped Mattresses. We are prepared!!

TRAVEL DAY 15 / TP +1 BRAGANCA TO RIBADESELLA

After loading the bikes in the van we set of back to UK. This time via Ferry from Bilbao.

We had one extra day so took the scenic route up to the Costa Verde. From Braganca up to the Spanish border the road was ideal for Adventure travelling. Twisty and empty all the way through the mountains. In Spain we took the Motorway west for a bit and then north east via more twisty roads to Leon in Spain. From there we followed the Motorway to Gijon through the Picos de Europa.

What a fantastic area and certainly on the bucket list now.

So far we were lucky with the weather, sunny and warm-ish all the way. Now after we crossed the Picos and arrived at the coast the weather turned. Heavy clouds and strong winds.

TRAVEL DAY 16 / TP +2 RIBADESELLA TO LAREDO

After a good breakfast we went on to Santander. The day was sunny and warmer than the day before and we had a full day to explore. So we strolled through the town and watched the people hustle and bustle about. We visited the indoor market, looked at strange fishes having their heads chopped off and being gutted. The fish that is.

As last task of the day we went a shopping for the cruise, water, nibbles etc and even bought some new walking boots.

After that we set off to Laredo, half way between Santander and Bilbao and found a Hotel on the beach with sea view and everything. Weather was getting windier and colder again, so we had an early night.

TRAVEL DAY 17 / TP +3 LAREDO TO UK

After a quick breakfast we loaded up and set off to Bilbao Port.

Before going into port we filled up the van at a Truck filling station which Donna had found a few trips before. €1.02/L Diesel. Very nice.

While waiting for the boat we chatted to a few Motorbike riders arriving and also met a group of riders leaving the boat on their way to Morocco. I was ready to unload my bike and go with them ……

The crossing itself started out a bit rough. Loads of people did not enjoy it. There was talk of category 12 gales, which probably were more cat 5, rocking and shaking the boat. But in the morning the sea was flat as a mirror and when we passed the Isle of Wright it was foggy.

We landed in Portsmouth right on time and a couple hours later were back home.

What a Trip. I want to do this all the time !